Red Carpet or Cart Checkout: The Designer’s Dilemma

Every designer walks the tightrope between visual noise and commercial silence. But how do you build a brand that speaks to both the cameras and the customers?

It’s a question every emerging designer quietly wrestles with: Do I design for the red carpet or the retail rack? One promises virality, the other promises sales. But rarely do they promise both.

Designing for celebrities and editorials often means crafting extravagant, conversation-sparking pieces—gowns dripping in drama, unconventional silhouettes, or hyper-stylized statements that look incredible on the steps of Cannes. But how many women actually want to wear a sheer sculptural corset dress to dinner?

On the other hand, designing for your actual customer—refined silhouettes, wearable details, flattering fits—might build loyalty and consistency, but risks going unnoticed in the noise of Instagram scrolls and fashion week highlights.

Let’s look at examples.

Schiaparelli has mastered the art of editorial maximalism. Daniel Roseberry’s collections are couture theatre—gold-plated body parts, surrealist references, bold volumes. Perfect for a celebrity moment (just ask Beyoncé or Zendaya). While the brand does offer more wearable and buyable pieces, it’s the bold, surreal creations that continue to define its identity and turn heads.

Contrast that with Khaite—a brand rooted in clean lines, smart tailoring, and New York sophistication. It may not generate headlines every week, but its customer base? Loyal, buying, and expanding.

Then there’s Coperni, a brand that’s attempted to do both. Remember the spray-on dress moment with Bella Hadid? A pure editorial stunt—but it drove eyeballs to the brand, and what customers found were wearable pieces like structured blazers and techy accessories that they could actually buy. That balance is rare, but strategic.

So, how should designers approach this when they’re just starting?

Know your end goal.
Do you want to be a fashion house known for spectacle? Or a slow-build, business-focused brand with a loyal base? There’s no wrong answer, but clarity at the start helps filter every creative decision.

Start with a core collection.
Think of this as your “customer line.” Pieces that are refined, wearable, easy to produce and repeat. These will build your revenue and data.

Layer in editorial moments.
Once you have a strong base, introduce 1-2 show-stoppers per collection—designed specifically for press, stylists, or celeb placements. Don’t count on them to sell. Count on them to amplify.

Don’t chase virality—build recognizability.
The loudest dress in the room isn’t always the most remembered. Design pieces that have your DNA stamped all over them. Consistency, even in creativity, breeds loyalty.

So, red carpet or retail cart?
The best brands learn to dance between both. Not every look has to go viral. But every look should feel like you—whether it’s worn by a pop star or your best customer.

And when in doubt? Remember this: the camera may love a moment, but the customer loves what fits.